|
THE CHELSEA CHOP
When one talks of gardening in the month of May, without doubt the Chelsea flower show will spring to mind. However, due to the unprecedented events this year and the prohibition of the coming together of large groups of people and social gatherings has equated to the nations favourite flower show unfortunately being cancelled. For the first ever time the show will be a virtual event which can be viewed online: Nevertheless, just because there is no actual Chelsea flower show it does not mean that we cannot partake in the Chelsea Chop. The Chelsea Chop, to clarify, is a pruning method to determine the size, shape and the flowering season of many of the herbaceous perennial plants. It is so called as it is carried out towards the end of May, coinciding with the RHS Chelsea Flower Show. It is suitable for late flowering perennials. But, why should we carry out the Chelsea Chop? It goes against the natural instinct to drastically cut back a plant prior to flowering. If a herbaceous perennial is chopped down to half its height, using secateurs or shears, it will delay the flowering until later in the summer. The plant will be more compact and shorter which equates to less staking and the flowers can be more numerous if slightly smaller. This is because the top shoots have been eliminated and side shoots lower down will develop and produce the new flowers. Overall, the plants will look much tidier and less leggy. If only half of the perennial clump is cut down, such as the front section, this will induce a prolonged flowering season as the rear section will flower first, then followed later by the pruned front section. Plants which can benefit from the Chelsea Chop are: - Phlox paniculata - Echinacea purpurea - Helenium - Rudbeckias - Penstemons - Nepeta The following are suitable for coastal gardens: - Anthemis tinctoria - Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’ - Achillea - Aster ‘michaelmas daisy’ - Campanulas The Chelsea Chop is hugely beneficial for perennials subjected to the coastal environment of wind and salt spray. The chop creating shorter and stiffer stems and more stability. The Chelsea Flower Show will be greatly missed this year, so why not visit the gardeners world website and their own guide to carrying out the Chelsea Chop. https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/how-to-do-the-chelsea-chop/
0 Comments
April is an ideal month for attending to any existing lawn care issues which may have arisen over time. If
it is a newly laid lawn which is desired then now is advisable before the average temperature begins to increase. For the first cut of the year it is recommended that the setting of the lawn mower should be on a higher setting. This is known as the ‘one third rule’ meaning one must not cut more than a third off the length of the blade of grass in one go. Cutting shorter on the first cut can stress the grass and if cut too short and scalping occurs, then a bare patch would be inviting for weeds to grow. Towards the end of the month the cutting height can be reduced to achieve the eventual desired length, however, this is dependant on the weather conditions and if the grass is growing profusely then more cuts maybe required or the cutting height may have to be reduced earlier. Before the first cut is made, an overall inspection should be made of the lawn and with a grass rake in hand, rake as much of the lawn area as possible. This is to achieve clearing the lawn of any stones or debris which may damage the blades of the mower, it also lifts the grass blades signalling them into life, removes any unwanted thatch and an opportunity to observe any bare patches or areas where weeds are making an appearance. Aeration is advisable too, particularly in the areas which are susceptible to compaction and this can be carried out with a standard gardening fork, the numerous holes allow the root zone more access to air and water and the chance for the lawn to breath. Aeration also aids in controlling the unwanted thatch which hinders lawn growth. The key for mitigating weed growth is to eliminate the bare patches of lawn, if the grass is thick and lush the weeds have less chance of growing. One must ask why a bare patch exists and does it occur in the same area each year, this maybe due to the area having minimal sunlight such as under a tree canopy. If this is the case then it maybe worthwhile considering reducing the lawn size and create a shallow garden bed for small shade tolerable plants. Where there are other bare patches of a noticeable size the ground can be prepared for ready made rolls of turf or alternatively grass seed can be applied. Preparation is of the utmost importance here and watering after the turf has been laid or the seed has been sown is essential. With the possibility of having more time available, then those deep rooted dandelions, providing they are not too in abundance and the ground reasonably soft could be dug out by hand. It is the bane of the lawn lover, but the dandelion with its bright yellow flowers is beneficial to pollen beetles and bees particularly in the month of April, therefore, if desired the first cut could always be delayed. It should be considered too that if the lawn was to remain slightly longer throughout the year, cut on a higher setting, then this may result in less weeds. The greater surface area on an individual grass blade equates to increased photosyntheses, which then results in more growth and increased root system, hence reducing the space for weeds to grow. by Oliver David Cook on behalf of Green Landscapes Cornwall  In these unprecedented times the garden can become our saviour, a place where we can temporarily escape from the tribulations which are unfolding around us and the rest of the world too. The garden provides food and medicine for the soul, but it could be regarded as reciprocal, that is the plants no doubt benefit too from human presence. There have been scientific studies that plants may benefit from being spoken to by humans and a great advocate of this was the Duke of Cornwall himself, The Prince of Wales. It was back in 1986 that Prince Charles famously quoted ‘I just come and talk to the plants, really – very important to talk to them. They respond.’ Indeed, the plants will respond from the release of carbon dioxide which is produced when people exhale as they speak. The plants then absorb the carbon dioxide which aids them with their growth and through the process of photosyntheses, oxygen is released as a by-product which in turn is breathed in by the speaker. It also maybe plausible that plants benefit from sounds such as a person talking. Sounds are forms of vibrations which the plants do respond to. An experiment was carried out several years ago by a television crew who arranged plants into separate greenhouses, each greenhouse having a different theme of sound. One greenhouse was silent, another was subjected to the sound of people talking, another to classical music and one to the sound of rock music. The greenhouse which remained silent had the least growth and the greenhouses with music being played had the most growth, the greenhouse of rock music having the most growth of all. However, from this conclusion it is recommended that one must not play loud music in their garden if it would cause any tension with the neighbours at this time of self-isolation, but some gentle singing maybe appreciated. Why not try an experiment yourself? It can work with house plants too. Have two identical potted plants which are placed apart from one another, but if possible the same amount of sunshine and water. Continually talk to one and not the other and after three weeks, the results may prove conclusive, either way it can help pass the time of self-isolation. Otherwise, venture out into the garden and start talking or singing to the plants, select a different area of the garden each day if possible. When asked at a later date if he still spoke to the plants, Prince Charles responded ‘No, now I instruct them instead.’ Whether you wish to instruct them or talk about the day to day events which are unfolding rapidly in front of our eyes, without doubt it will benefit both the plants and the person who is speaking. BY OLIVER DAVID COOK  MARCH FOR THE SUMMER BULBS
During the month of March the northern hemisphere spring equinox occurs, thus the length of daylight is equal to that of darkness. From then onwards the daylight hours increase and the gardening season is well and truly upon us and no doubt a floriferous spring and summer to look forward to. A variety of summer bloom can come from the bulbous plants and the month of March is ideal to plant the following popular bulbs: - Dahlias - Gladioli - Begonias - Crocosmia - Cannas Lily All of the above can be regarded as sub-tropical plants, which thrive in the sunny and warm locations of the garden. Therefore, it is best to take heed of the weather forecast and not to proceed with planting if a frost is imminent. Essentially the difference between spring bulbs and summer bulbs is that the spring bulbs require several weeks of cold temperatures to trigger the upward growth, hence they are planted in autumn and remain in the soil throughout the winter with growth and blossom occurring in spring. However, the summer bulbs with their preference for a warmer climate do not require this slumber period of cold temperatures. The term bulb is used generically as it includes bulbs, tubers, corms and rhizomes. They are all underground storage organs, the correct name which classifies them all under one umbrella is ‘Geophytes’ originating from Greek, earth (Geo) and plant (phytes). The planting depths can vary depending on the type of bulb, a good rule of thumb is two to three times the size of the bulb which more than often equates to planting approximately 100mm deep. Dahlias are root tubers and can benefit from being pot planted in a greenhouse for the initial growth to commence and then transplanted into the garden, this is to ensure they do not succumb to any frosts. It is however, the temperature of the soil, a minimum of 13c and not the air temperature which contributes to healthy and beautiful dahlias, therefore, it is best to choose an area with full sun and lighter, free drainage soil. Gladioli and Crocosmias are both corms and to be planted approximately 100mm deep and it is advisable to prepare the planting bed by adding some compost after loosening the soil with a garden fork. The Crocosmia corms will benefit from being planted in clumps, whereas, the Gladioli should be planted individually with the point of the corm facing upwards and by placing several in close vicinity to one another, one will be rewarded with a fabulous display of blossom. Gladioli also make excellent cut flowers for the enthusiastic florists amongst us. Begonia tubers are suited for containers and hanging baskets and will provide a continuous colour throughout the summer and autumn. The fibrous rooted variety are more suitable for the garden beds. The tubers have a convex side which is planted downwards, the concave side will posses the new growth and faces upwards. Plant in a pot with a thin layer of gravel/shingle to allow for drainage then the remainder with compost and plant the tuber just beneath the surface. The range of colourful begonias available ensure hanging baskets are a great addition to any garden. The canna lily is a rhizome (underground stem) and the large bold tropical leaves and striking flowers make for a terrific display and should be planted in full sun and a sheltered location away from strong winds. Plant the rhizomes, with the growing points facing upwards, 100mm deep with 500mm spacing between each one for a superb summer display and then water thoroughly. It is highly recommended to use a soil thermometer probe before the planting of summer bulbs, then one can be sure the necessary soil temperature of 13c has been reached for a successful summer bloom. It is a month which at times can show signs of spring and entice one to partake in some gardening. Indeed, if the weather is genial then February is the ideal month to prune those plants which belong to the RHS category of Group Six pruning. Essentially, these are the plants which flower late summer to autumn and on the current new seasons stems and growth. Examples of plants which adhere to Group Six pruning are:
As these shrubs flower on the same years growth a hard prune is required during the month of February and as in the case of the hardy Fuschias almost down to ground level, this can be extremely therapeutic too for the person who is doing the pruning. Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’ which exhibits a wonderful display of blue-lilac flowers, also known as Russian Sage, will benefit immensely from a hard prune back to its basal shoots. Perovskia thrives in many coastal areas and in many soil types and with aromatic leaves akin to sage and an appearance similar to lavender it makes an excellent low lying hedgerow. Buddleja Davidii also known as the ‘Butterfly Bush’ can be cut down, using large pruners, to approximately half a metre from the ground, this will encourage upright shoots with a slight arching habit and will be greatly appreciated by the butterflies. As a rule of thumb for shrubs which adhere to Group Six pruning, cut back the previous years flowering stems to one or two buds from the older framework. Certain types of Clematis will also be required to have a hard prune in February, this is particularly the case for Herbaceous Clematis, Gypsy Queen and Clematis Viticella. They all flower on the current seasons growth in late summer and if they are not pruned annually the stems will be devoid of flowers and only up high will the flowers grow and most often amongst a tangled mass of growth. It must be noted that Clematis has its own pruning group classification, those which flower in late summer fall into Clematis Group 3, whereas, those which flower in early summer and on older wood or the previous years growth fall into Clematis Group 2. If unsure when to prune, then observe the time of year the Clematis will come into flower. For the kitchen gardeners, autumn raspberries will fall into Pruning Group Six. All old canes should be cut back down to ground level in February and the new canes will start to grow in spring and then fruit in late summer. It is important not to mistake summer raspberries for the autumn variety, as they fruit on the previous years canes, which would result in a loss of crop. Contribution By Oliver David Cook  "After his long journey across Europe and Asia Minor, Voltaire has his hero Candide settle down on the outskirts of the Muslim city of Constantinople to “tend his own garden”, in other words “to mind his own business.” After witnessing horrifying episodes of religious intolerance and political oppression Candide decides that the best thing to do in the world is settle down, live peacefully with his neighbours, and produce something of value to others which he can sell in the markets." Candide (1759)
 The sun still remains low in the sky and the length of daylight hours are short, but the month of January provides an opportunity to pay attention to the deciduous plants of the garden, that is those which annually lose and renew their leaves. It is this time of the year that the deciduous plants are dormant, meaning the preferred time for pruning and transplanting.
Young, newly planted trees can grow branches out into other nearby plants and now is the time to prune the misplaced stems, always cutting back to the main stem or at a junction of another branch. Lower side growths can also be pruned to form a length of bare trunk, this is known as a standard tree. Any dead or diseased branches can be removed and a general prune is advisable to tidy trees and shrubs to one’s liking. If any shrubs which have become loosened by wind they should be firmed up and staked if necessary. Providing conditions permit, January is a good time to plant deciduous bare-root trees and shrubs, particularly the common hedging varieties such as, Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus), Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) and Beech (Fagus sylvatica). If the weather conditions are not congenial and the soil is waterlogged, the bare-root plants can be healed in a corner of the garden until the soil is suitable. When purchasing bare-root plants always look for evenly distributed spreading roots and not ones which are tightly coiled. The spacing of between each hedging plant can vary, but below is a guideline: Hawthorn 30-45cm Hornbeam 45-60cm Beech 30-60cm This is assuming a single row of planting, if a denser wider hedge is desired then double planting is required, this is two rows of staggered plants and the spacing of the plants should be slightly increased. In exposed sites, a temporary wind break may be necessary and it must be positioned on the windward side of the hedge. It should remain erected until the hedge becomes established and can support itself. Other deciduous plants which can be attended to are climbers, now that they are without leaves it is easier to see where the stems are and where to cut. The vigorous climbers, such as Hydrangea Petiolaris, can cause structural damage on buildings so now is a good time to prune. Wisteria can have what is known as its second prune, during the summer, the new long shoots would of been cut back to five or six buds from the main stem, now in January, these same shoots should be shortened even more to two or three buds from the main stem. This should encourage a fabulous display of flowers by early next year. Written by Oliver David Cook on behalf of Green Landscapes Cornwall  MISTLETOE the ‘air-plant’
Mistletoe, its true name being Viscum Album, is synonymous with this time of year particularly with the tradition of ‘Kissing under the Mistletoe’. There are many ancient mistletoe traditions, the best known being the Scandinavian legend Balder, the god of peace, who was killed by an arrow made from mistletoe and was resurrected by the other deities. The goddess of love was then entrusted with the mistletoe and regarded it as symbol of love, hence, any person passing beneath shall receive a kiss. Mistletoe is an evergreen parasitic shrub with white viscous berries and of the natural order Loranthaceae. It is a native of Europe and North Asia and requires a host plant with which to grow on, such as an apple tree in the garden. Orchards benefit from the growing of mistletoe on their fruit trees, thus yielding a return during the winter months when the trees are dormant. This is what makes the mistletoe so unique, it is also known as an ‘air-plant’ that is it is not rooted to the ground but it attaches itself to other plants, the correct name for such a plant is an Epiphyte, this word originating from the Greek words epi (upon) and phyton (plant). The bark and the leathery mistletoe leaves are of a yellow-green colour and are oval- lance-shaped, mostly in pairs. In spring, there are inconspicuous yellow flowers which consist of four triangular sepals, a similar number of anthers and an ovary with simple stigma. This is followed by poisonous white berries, however, they are devoured by birds most notably the Mistle Thrush, the seeds becoming attached to the branches of trees by their agency. On germination the embryo pierces the bark and penetrates to the wood and here it draws most of its food from the tree, but it manufactures carbohydrates in its leaves.The constituents of mistletoe can vary due to the host plant with which it grows on and it is believed the Druids regarded the mistletoe which grew on an Oak was the superior, although Oak being a rare host. It possible to grow your own mistletoe and there are numerous fact sheets and websites available including the following: http://mistletoe.org.uk/homewp/index.php/grow-your-own/ Timber decking construction in England has progressed rapidly within the last thirty years and evolved enabling more efficient, cost and labour saving methods. However, it is perceived that decking is a cheaper alternative to other methods of hard landscaping, such as various types of stone paving. This is not always the case as the work involved below the finished boards of deck can amount to more than 80% of time and labour. The square metre in total price of timber decking can equal that of a paved area, this does depend though on the nature of the site - a site survey would determine this.
Availability of specific materials, ironmongery and fixings mean the aesthetics of the finished deck have also improved considerably over the years, high tensile screws for attaching joists to posts without having to initially drill a pilot hole and decking screws coloured green to attach the deck boards all attribute towards a professionally built deck with minimal fixings visible. Hardwood can be used for the decking boards but softwood is the more popular of the two and widely available, also no pilot holes are required for the screws when using softwood boards. The green decking screws, with the drill set accordingly will sit just below the top surface of the board and will be barely visible. It is advisable, if possible, to have the smoother side of the decking facing upwards and the surface with the most grooves to be on the underside, contrary to belief with regards to a better grip. Over time the grooves accumulate debris and moss and it makes it increasingly more difficult to clean in comparison to the smooth surface. It is strongly advisable to power wash timber decking once a year, spring being the best time and in preparation for summer usage. Green Landscapes Cornwall operate a spring clean power wash service. The vast amount of work which is not visible to the end product is vital to the safety and durability of the timber deck.
HAPPY DECKING |
AuthorHello everyone, Green Landscapes Cornwall are sharing with you some ideas about how to implement different features for your garden! Archives
December 2020
Categories
All
|
RSS Feed