Frogs and toads are a great indicator of a thriving ecosystem existing within the garden, it is therefore advisable to create a welcoming environment for them to live. They are classified as bioindicators, a living organism which represents the health of the garden, similar to worms and lichens and if any toxins or harsh chemicals are present then these bioindicators may perish. The greatest benefit frogs and toads have to offer is their diet, they consume a variety of insects, a natural method of eliminating the unwanted pests and not having to resort to a synthetic pesticide. March onwards frogspawn and toadspawn can be seen beneath the surface of ponds and streams, frogspawn takes on the appearance of jelly like eggs, whereas, toadspawn has more of a ribbon like character. The frogspawn dots transmute into comma shape, then into unhatched tadpoles and finally the full metamorphosis is complete from tadpole to frog, this final stage can range from one month to several depending on the species. The tadpole diet of algae changes to a carnivorous diet for the frog. If there is an abundance of algae and a congenial environment the tadpole can delay its transformation into a frog. However, if algae is sparse and predators abound then they will transform into a frog sooner. To encourage frogs and toads into the garden a natural environment will have to be created for them which resembles their natural habitat in the wild. Firstly, when choosing plants and shrubs, if possible incorporate native plants, shrubs and grasses opposed to non-native or invasive plants. The addition of a pond or water-feature is an axiom, it is the breeding ground and without doubt the greatest enticement to allure the amphibians, but ensure the pond has a natural, informal edge creating easier access and wildlife friendly. Its not just presence of water but also compost heaps, piles of logs or stones where they can seek shelter and prey on slugs and insects too. It is reputed that frogs and toads can consume up to an astounding one hundred insects each day, this being extremely beneficial to the entire garden including the vegetable garden, thus, requiring little need for pesticides. Chemicals accumulate in water and being that frogs and toads requiring a moist, damp environment, they would suffer immensely from the run off of pesticide use. For a well balanced ecosystem to exist then why not encourage frogs and toads into the garden, a delight to listen to in during the summer and a natural way to keep the pests at bay.
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During the month of March the northern hemisphere spring equinox occurs, thus the length of daylight is
equal to that of darkness. From then onwards the daylight hours increase and the gardening season is well and truly upon us and no doubt a floriferous spring and summer to look forward to. A variety of summer bloom can come from the bulbous plants and the month of March is ideal to plant the following popular bulbs: - Dahlias - Gladioli - Begonias - Crocosmia - Cannas Lily All of the above can be regarded as sub-tropical plants, which thrive in the sunny and warm locations of the garden. Therefore, it is best to take heed of the weather forecast and not to proceed with planting if a frost is imminent. Essentially the difference between spring bulbs and summer bulbs is that the spring bulbs require several weeks of cold temperatures to trigger the upward growth, hence they are planted in autumn and remain in the soil throughout the winter with growth and blossom occurring in spring. However, the summer bulbs with their preference for a warmer climate do not require this slumber period of cold temperatures. The term bulb is used generically as it includes bulbs, tubers, corms and rhizomes. They are all underground storage organs, the correct name which classifies them all under one umbrella is ‘Geophytes’ originating from Greek, earth (Geo) and plant (phytes). The planting depths can vary depending on the type of bulb, a good rule of thumb is two to three times the size of the bulb which more than often equates to planting approximately 100mm deep. Dahlias are root tubers and can benefit from being pot planted in a greenhouse for the initial growth to commence and then transplanted into the garden, this is to ensure they do not succumb to any frosts. It is however, the temperature of the soil, a minimum of 13c and not the air temperature which contributes to healthy and beautiful dahlias, therefore, it is best to choose an area with full sun and lighter, free drainage soil. Gladioli and Crocosmias are both corms and to be planted approximately 100mm deep and it is advisable to prepare the planting bed by adding some compost after loosening the soil with a garden fork. The Crocosmia corms will benefit from being planted in clumps, whereas, the Gladioli should be planted individually with the point of the corm facing upwards and by placing several in close vicinity to one another, one will be rewarded with a fabulous display of blossom. Gladioli also make excellent cut flowers for the enthusiastic florists amongst us. Begonia tubers are suited for containers and hanging baskets and will provide a continuous colour throughout the summer and autumn. The fibrous rooted variety are more suitable for the garden beds. The tubers have a convex side which is planted downwards, the concave side will posses the new growth and faces upwards. Plant in a pot with a thin layer of gravel/shingle to allow for drainage then the remainder with compost and plant the tuber just beneath the surface. The range of colourful begonias available ensure hanging baskets are a great addition to any garden. The canna lily is a rhizome (underground stem) and the large bold tropical leaves and striking flowers make for a terrific display and should be planted in full sun and a sheltered location away from strong winds. Plant the rhizomes, with the growing points facing upwards, 100mm deep with 500mm spacing between each one for a superb summer display and then water thoroughly. It is highly recommended to use a soil thermometer probe before the planting of summer bulbs, then one can be sure the necessary soil temperature of 13c has been reached for a successful summer bloom. We often strive for an orderly and well maintained garden, one which looks tidy with regular pruning, mowing of lawns and the weeding of garden beds. Aesthetically pleasing and satisfying this may be, the garden, however, becomes devoid of any mess and untidiness, and this in due course can have an adverse affect on the wildlife and beneficial insects. The beneficial insects being those which create a natural ecological balance within the garden, attracting a range of prey and predators. These insects and mammals work in harmony and will reduce the unwanted pests which can attack the vegetable garden and shrubs alike. They will also lessen the need for any chemical applications. To entice these insects into the garden, a suitable, natural habitat is required, and the most appropriate is a dead wood habitat, essentially, a pile of logs or a wood stack. Winter is an ideal time to procure the dead wood, either from gathering any fallen branches within the garden or by pruning the dead limbs and branches, particularly from deciduous trees and shrubs. Avoid collecting the wood from natural woodlands and hedgerows as this will be disrupting an existing habitat and the natural environment. Alternatively, ask neighbours if they have any excess dead wood they are wanting rid of, I am sure it would be greatly appreciated. The location of the wood pile within the garden is critical for a successful dead wood habitat, it should be away from direct sunlight and sited in a full shade area, or with dapple light. This environment will augment the wood decay and encourage fungi, mosses, lichens and insects. To construct a log pile it is advisable to find logs with the bark still attached, the bottom layer of say four to five logs to be partially buried into the ground, the decaying wood beneath the soil’s surface attracts certain types of beetle. Ensure there are nooks and crannies for insects and mammals to enter and then add leaf litter into the gaps to encourage hedgehogs seeking hibernation. Another couple of log rows can be placed on top, the dark and damp conditions will lure centipedes, millipedes and woodlice which in turn attract the predators such as birds, toads and hedgehogs. A wood stack is constructed with smaller branches and twigs and is just as beneficial as a log pile for wildlife. Firstly, it is recommended that branches/stakes are driven vertically into the ground, forming a rectangular shape and with approximately half metre remaining above ground. Then start with laying the larger branches at the bottom and begin to fill the formed rectangular shape with the remaining branches and twigs until the desired height is reached. A mixture of wood is good for both log pile and wood stack, however, poplar and willow cuttings can have a tendency to re-sprout if in prolonged contact with the ground. The wood will slowly decay over a duration of time and more can always be added, thus, a permanent home has now been created to encourage the beneficial insects and assist towards a balanced ecological garden. If unsure how to dispose of the logs and wood cuttings, then why not transmute them into a dead wood habitat, as dead wood breeds life. |
Welcome!Here at Penwarne Landscaping we are all passionate about gardens, and believe that outdoor spaces are just as important as indoor ones! In this blog, we regularly share our expertise along with tips and tricks that you can use to make the most of your garden and home. Archives
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