 pictured: Maia with two forest edibles : Amethyst Deceiver (purple) and Chanterelle My love of gathering wild food started when I was a child. I was born and grew up in London, but spent my childhood summers in the cabin my granddad built in the middle of the woods in Poland. The cabin was a world away from London life. Think washing in the stream, cooking on a wood fired stove, mushroom hunting, stargazing, and having to walk down a woodland path to get to the compost loo. Even when not in Poland, my parents have always loved a life outdoors, and would take my sister and I on all sorts of weekend adventures, many of which did involve mushroom foraging. I learnt about mushrooms mainly with my mum, who in turn learnt from her dad. There’s a big culture for mushroom hunting in Poland. I’m no expert, and really only know a handful of varieties, but the happiness I feel when I come across these mushrooms is immeasurable. Is it nostalgia? Is it something primordial? Or is it both of those mixed with the joy of being in the woods? Who knows. I only know that it gives me the kind of joy that seems excessive and bizarre to someone who doesn’t understand it. It’s also something that inspires my work. I’m an artist, illustrator and author, and my most recent children’s picture book ‘Wylder’ celebrates a more sensitive and mindful way of connecting with nature, including a good few nods to my love of wild food gathering.  box of 20 wild edibles There are many different thoughts that can lead me to go out looking for wild food. Mainly though, they fall into two camps: “I could do with some leafy greens,” or “I could do with some mindfulness/therapy.”
Over five years ago I moved to Cornwall, and although I’ve loved mushrooming since I was a child, it’s only in the last couple of years that I really started paying more attention to plants. A couple of years ago, it had been a while since I’d been mushrooming, and a beautiful solo adventure to a new spot reignited my love for it. It must have been then that I decided I didn’t want to rely on just one part of the year to get this feeling. I wanted to learn more about what you could gather all year round, which lead me to think more about plants. Without knowing it you probably already know a good few wild edibles: brambles, nettles, dandelions… That’s how it started for me. Then one time, along with my sister and mum, I went on an organised foraging walk here on the coast. Gaining knowledge about some new plants sparked my interest further and had a snowball effect. Then learning more and more new plants randomly here and there whilst walking with or chatting with friends and family… It just changed the way I looked at things. I observed more during my walks, and I wanted to know what was what. It does surprise me just how much I’ve learnt through curiosity and interest. Gathering wild food and gaining knowledge on it is a satisfying and rewarding thing. I think the more you know, the more you want to know and the easier it becomes to absorb new knowledge. Going out to gather wild edibles is a different way of looking at and engaging with your environment. By default you connect and interact with the land, you have to pay attention to your surroundings and engage your senses. I have no doubt that this form of focused awareness and presence has a great benefit for mind health. For me it definitely feels like mindfulness and a form of therapy. And how great it is to then on top of that have access to free food that’s full of nutrients, not only because it’s freshly picked, but also because it’s from more nutrient-rich wild and uncultivated soil. In a supermarket you only have access to a handful of different leafy green varieties, but when you go for a walk you could be surrounded by dozens of edible plants without knowing it (and of course deadly poisonous ones too!). We’ve experienced a great loss in our connection to nature and food. The knowledge of wild edibles, something that is somewhere deep in all our blood, these days isn’t so readily available or accessible to everyone, and can all too easily start to seem like a fancy interest for the lucky people who have time on their hands. It’s important to note though, that going out and picking plants to eat isn’t in itself a sustainable act, and on the contrary, when done in a non-mindful way, can actually be very damaging to nature and ecosystems. Something to remember is to never take more than what you will eat, and always leave plenty for wildlife… after all they don’t have grocery shops, and they completely rely on wild food. So go gently, and be mindful. Modern agriculture has a devastating impact on the planet and on the welfare of animals and humans, but with how densely populated the world currently is, plus how little wild spaces are left in comparison, if we all went to forage our own food right now this could have pretty interesting implications on the natural world too. Of course, it doesn’t look like we’re all suddenly going to do that, but it’s just good to stay mindful of how you interact with the natural world, whether it’s the environmental/ethical impact of the food you buy in a shop, or how you pick the mushrooms in the forest. Here are a few common edible plants you may find it nice to get to know, and some of which you likely already know. These notes are not meant to be a guide in identification, just a little personal introduction to them that might inspire you to investigate further. Nettle I’m sure everybody knows this one! Pick the top couple/few layers of leaves of this super food, and either make a nettle tea, nettle soup, add it to curry or pasta sauces, make it into a pesto, or just steam it and use it like any other cooked leafy green. You can use gloves if, unlike me, you don’t like the sting! Dandelion Such a versatile plant. I’m known to not bother de-weeding this nutritious medicinal plant from my veg beds, as I think of it more as a salad crop than a weed! You can eat the leaves, flowers, stems and cook the root. The leaves have a bitter taste, which I personally really like. I love the younger leaves added to salad (as it’s quick, easy and means you keep more nutrients intact by not cooking) and I’ve made soups and pestos out of the leaves too. The flowers are also great in salads, and I’ve made dandelion syrup from them before for a cake recipe, which is a nice thing to do when you have more time. But I’m definitely all about the faff-free plants that you can either eat raw or quickly cook, and dandelion is one of those for sure. Clover I think most of us know what a clover looks like with its three leaves, and how common it is. Both the leaves and flowers are edible, but up till now I’ve mainly only picked the flowers to add to salads. I really love adding flowers to salads, mainly for the colours and how it looks :) Common sorrel Sorrel is one of those I had heard about for so long and wanted to find, but somehow only came across my first one way later… and now I see it everywhere! It really is a common plant. It grows in a rosette, and the main identifying feature is the pointed tails at the base of the arrow shaped leaf. It has a lovely sour citrusy taste, and I most like it added fresh to salads. Pennywort I love this succulent plant. It grows from stone walls and rock crevices and has a distinct appearance, so it’s an easy one to identify. It has a lovely fresh crisp taste and texture, and is great added to salads, curries, cooked dishes, or as a raw garnish to cooked dishes, to add freshness and texture. Be gentle when picking this one as the roots of the plant come up with the plant very easily if you’re not careful. Ribwort plantain Another very common and highly nutritious plant that seems to grow almost everywhere. You can add the leaves to salads, and also add it cooked to dishes you would use other leafy greens in. I’d say I eat this one mainly because it’s so common and nutritious, not because it’s particularly tasty. I haven’t tried them myself, but apparently the flower buds have a mushroomy taste. Honeysuckle I’d known and loved honeysuckle and its beautiful scent for so long before I realised the flowers were edible! I add them to salads, and decorate cakes with them :) Sea beet (coastal) This rich green plant with its shiny succulent leaves can be found around the coast. It’s a great one to know about because it’s both very common and also delicious. Similar to spinach but tastier, and like spinach can be eaten raw or cooked. Click hereThe Secret Wild Garden Contribution by Maia Walczak words and pictures
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 Early autumn is an ideal month to divide the herbaceous perennials of the garden. These are the flowering plants which die back each winter, the roots remaining dormant beneath the soil until the arrival of the following spring, this bringing warmer temperatures which triggers new growth to commence once again.
There are a variety available, producing a beautiful array of colours for the entire summer season. Popular herbaceous perennials are: - Geranium - Phlox - Salvia - Delphinium - Aster - Hostas The question is why to divide? Herbaceous perennials can outgrow their space and look rather messy, particularly in the centres and after division, older plants will have an opportunity to rejuvenate. The garden beds overall may have become overcrowded with plants encroaching on others adjacent to them and without dividing, the following summer the crowding will augment. It is a productive method to increase the number of plants within the garden and to fill any empty spaces that may exist, this being division is quicker in comparison to growing from seed. It can also save money, if the garden has recently been landscaped then it is an excellent way of adding plants and colour to a newly formed bed. When dividing, it is advisable to cut down the summer growth of the taller plants near to the base, then with a garden fork gently lift the plant working outwards from the centre as the most vigorous growth is found on the outer areas of the clump. Alternatively, the traditional method of digging deeper around the perimeter of the plant with the intention of lifting the entire perennial. A spade can be used on the tougher plants such as Hostas and slicing the clump in two after being lifted. The smaller plants such as Geraniums, clumps from the outer edges can be lifted using a garden spade, then once lifted, they can be divided again into smaller clumps with the use of a sharp knife. Perennials with tubers or rhizomes may naturally fall apart when dug, otherwise the tubers are often visible above ground, indicating where to divide. The divisions should be planted as soon as possible and well watered, part of the clump could be replanted in the same position or a different area of the garden. It is beneficial to clean the soil from the roots, the advantage being the health of the roots can be seen as one does not wish to replant damaged or diseased roots or tubers. When ever a plant is lifted it is subjected to shock, however, during the dormant time of autumn the shock is less profound. The plants growth cycle after division will be slow as it recovers from this disturbance. The age old saying being; ‘After you divide a perennial, the first year it sleeps, the second it creeps, and the third year it leaps’. Contribution courtesy of Oliver David Cook on behalf of Green Landscapes Cornwall Ltd  Lavender is without doubt one of the most popular shrubs to be found in any garden and with good reason too, providing a plethora of pleasures from the amazing aroma to the wonderful lilac flowers, particularly as they sway hither and thither in a gentle summer breeze. Planted alongside paths and walkways, as a small hedge, the perfume emitted is
therapeutic for the person, whilst at the same time attracting butterflies and bees. Planting lavender in clumps or in hedge form ensues a profusion of blossom and is more beneficial for the insects as it means they can jump from flower to flower with ease, compared to a sporadic planting plan. Towards the end of August is the favourable time to prune and harvest the flowers, the soil temperature is at its warmest and once pruned the plant will have an opportunity to grow new shoots before the approaching winter, these shoots will then spring into life the following year. Lavender angustifolia is by far the most suitable to grow here in the UK, the varieties Hidcote and Munstead being the most popular, the latter producing a slightly darker flower. Both fall into the RHS pruning group 10 classification, meaning they flower on new wood and regular pruning will prevent them from becoming too woody. The best time of day to harvest lavender for its aromatic properties is early morning, during this time the oils of the flowers are most profound. As the daytime temperature increases the fragrant oils dissipate and the flowers will then begin to open up more and this is the desired time to harvest for decorative purposes. It is important to use sharp secateurs or shears for pruning as a clean cut is essential and one must avoid from cutting too low into the wood stem section as this will prohibit any new growth which is formed on the upper section only. Aim for cutting one third of the leaf section and in doing so forming a nice evenly rounded mound for aesthetic purposes too. The cut stems and flowers can be bundled together with an elastic band or garden twine and hung for drying away from direct sunlight and in a dry sheltered location. Once the lavender has dried, approximately 3 weeks, the buds can be rubbed or shaken off and stored in a lidded jar. There are numerous applications for dried lavender with imagination being key. The reputed therapeutic benefits include induced calmness, promoting sleep and lowering the heart rate all attributing to a more relaxed state. To enhance the aromas of the house, dried lavender can be used to aid cleaning with a sprinkling of the flowers on carpet prior to vacuuming to release the fragrance. Lavender oils also have multitudinous benefits and uses and a visit to the UK’s most southerly lavender farm based here in Cornwall is highly recommended. Here a wide range of products can be purchased, providing much inspiration too. https://www.cornwall-lavender.co.uk/ Contribution by Oliver David Cook on behalf of Green Landscapes Cornwall Ltd  Having made the obligatory bookends back in the mid 70’s, my path to wood-working was set.
Wood is one of those materials that you do not need a huge number of tools to be able to create and craft something from, a simple pocketknife is where most people can start. whittling....... a pointy stick, a bow some arrows, a spoon, a candlestick for granny.... and here the seed is planted for life; great oaks from little acorns grow. I am not saying we will all become great furniture makers or timber building experts, but you can make a living out of it. Over the course of my varied career I have often relied on my wood working skills in between jobs! To physically build something with your own hands I believe is possibly one of the most satisfying things that you can do. Start small and work your way up. Hard or soft, interior or exterior that is the question. Wood has been used over the centuries utilising its natural strength, durability, lightweight, and adaptability to build virtually anything! Different woods have different properties. I will confine my thoughts to the UK rather than the global list of timber. At the hard and durable end of the scale is the mighty Oak, usable both in its natural or ‘Green’ state for traditional timer framed houses or dried for furniture indoors or outdoors. Then there are the likes of Cedar and Larch both known for their natural durability especially outside, as in roof shingle/tiles and building cladding respectively. Then we move towards the softer woods, mainly used in modern house constriction, these can be slower grown such as the Scots Pine, or faster growing and softer Douglas Fir. All woods have their own unique properties such as Willow for cricket bats or Yew for longbows; they can be used in their natural form such as Hazel hurdles or kiln dried for fine quality furniture. "To physically build something with your own hands I believe is possibly one of the most satisfying things that you can do. Start small and work your way up." Whatever you decide to make there is always a tool for it, if correctly sharpened and used it can make your life much easier; but it is amazing what you can do with just a hand saw, a hammer and some nails! One of the most important things to remember is that wood working tools are sharp so that they can cut or slice through the tough fibres of the timber, what you do not want is the same cutting edge doing damage to flesh and bone. I have never met a woodworker who has not had too close an encounter with one of his tools and displays the scars with pride; but I do not recommend it! Now for the juicier bit… how and what to do with that wasted area in the garden that is on too steep a slope to be of any use, except as an Eddie the Eagle practice ski slope. Perhaps you need to extend your internal entertaining house space by taking the inside out! Building a Deck area either alongside your house or to create a special area within the garden does not have to be too daunting a task. In a nutshell, or perhaps I should say an Acorn? There are a few factors to take into consideration. For the sake of this blog I will assume that you have decided on a decking area rather than a stone patio. I will also take a more practical look at the process. Things to consider. What material you want to use, there are several choices; dependent on budget, aesthetics, maintenance, and environmental impact… the choice is yours? Woods like Larch or Cedar that are more water resistant than say pressure treated sort woods. Hardwoods such as Teak or Oak are at the pricier end of the range but require less maintenance. Wood-polymer composite decking, made from recycled plastic and wood fibres, has come a long way in the last few years and in my opinion is a much better alternative to plastic (hollow) decking and has some qualities that start to compete with the softer wood options; both on longevity and upkeep. For a more contemporary feel there is Aluminium, generally made from recycled products. I have recently come across and worked with charred timber planks for decking. A technique originally used by the Japanese in the 18 th century referred to as “Shou Sugi Ban”. The surface of the timber is burnt to enhance its durability and aesthetics. Whether it is a slopey side of a hill or an uneven bit of useless ground beside your home, setting your datum or starting point is essential. I like to call it “The Motherboard”, all boards are created equal, but some are more equal than others! If you get this one right everything generally goes to plan, if not chaos will reign! This could simply be your desired finishing height or the height of an existing step or patio. "I have recently come across and worked with charred timber planks for decking. A technique originally used by the Japanese in the 18 th century referred to as “Shou Sugi Ban”. The surface of the timber is burnt to enhance its durability and aesthetics." You need to keep the decking planks up and away from potentially wet ground, therefore a solid and stable sub-structure is needed. You can either use concrete slabs or blocks or 100mm x 100mm posts concreted into the ground, this is my preferred option as it ensures that what you build stays there! I would then normally recommend 50mm x 150mm pressure treated softwood or 6” x 2” for those of my age bracket (we don't discriminate); smaller timbers can be used if space and height is an issue but you will need to reduce your span distances accordingly. Then to nogging or not to nogging is the question? A nogging or a dwang if you are in Scotland or NZ, is a bracing piece of wood fitted between floor joists to prevent them from twisting under pressure; only really needed with larger structures and greater spans. I find the combination of upright posts and the decking boards themselves do for solid structure, another reason why I like to use posts. Then its just a case of laying out and fixing your boards; two screws in each board on every joist, with a 5mm gap between boards; a good little impact-driver savers a lot of time and your drill. Until next time. Capt. Stardust 20/7/2020  During the peak months of summer and particularly July, the garden more often than not is in
need of water and it is important to monitor all perennials, shrubs and lawn to ensure they are receiving a sufficient amount. Hanging baskets, container plants and newly planted summer bedding plants are the most prone to drought due to being shallow rooted. Shrubs and trees will be deeper rooted and will be able to source their water supply from further down beneath ground level, that is providing the water table level has not dropped too low from a prolonged period of dry weather. There are two sources of water supply available for use in the garden and they are tap-water and rainwater, the latter being natural and more beneficial as it contains no chlorides and has zero hardness. However, when there is a limited supply of rainwater, then tap-water will be the only option. Ponds and water-features this time of year can drop to a low level and will require the use of a hose for a regular top up to maintain a sufficient level, this will also benefit any fish, particularly with the addition of a spray attachment which will aid in aeration. To maintain a lush green lawn during dry periods can be challenging and it is advisable to water only once a week to minimise wastage. An excellent suggestion by the RHS is to place an empty jam-jar on the lawn and with the sprinkler running for a sufficient time, that is until 13mm (0.5inch) has collected at the bottom of the jar. This is the optimum amount before excess water is wasted as the lawn has now received its required amount. With regards to watering plants, it is more economical and efficient to use a watering can compared to indiscriminate watering by a hose. Water management is extremely important during periods of drought and the essence of this is the method of water storage and harvesting. The most popular method by far is the use of water butts positioned below downpipes which then take the run-off of rain water from various roofs such as garden sheds, greenhouses or even the house. With the water butt raised up on blocks, the tap at the base can be utilised to fill watering cans with the valuable stored rain water. The question then is when is the best time to water the plants and lawn of the garden? The blades of grass will hold moisture in the early hours of the morning, the moisture retreating to the roots around midday. It is a general consensus that to avoid evaporation the best time to apply water is in the morning or evening whilst avoiding the heat of the midday sun. The morning application is the most favoured, this is because the ground will be drier as the day progresses compared to the evening time, equating to a reduced chance of mildew diseases and the arrival of slugs and snails. The final question being: Is it best to water from the top, watering the leaves too, or from the bottom and the roots only? The jury is still out! April is an ideal month for attending to any existing lawn care issues which may have arisen over time. If
it is a newly laid lawn which is desired then now is advisable before the average temperature begins to increase. For the first cut of the year it is recommended that the setting of the lawn mower should be on a higher setting. This is known as the ‘one third rule’ meaning one must not cut more than a third off the length of the blade of grass in one go. Cutting shorter on the first cut can stress the grass and if cut too short and scalping occurs, then a bare patch would be inviting for weeds to grow. Towards the end of the month the cutting height can be reduced to achieve the eventual desired length, however, this is dependant on the weather conditions and if the grass is growing profusely then more cuts maybe required or the cutting height may have to be reduced earlier. Before the first cut is made, an overall inspection should be made of the lawn and with a grass rake in hand, rake as much of the lawn area as possible. This is to achieve clearing the lawn of any stones or debris which may damage the blades of the mower, it also lifts the grass blades signalling them into life, removes any unwanted thatch and an opportunity to observe any bare patches or areas where weeds are making an appearance. Aeration is advisable too, particularly in the areas which are susceptible to compaction and this can be carried out with a standard gardening fork, the numerous holes allow the root zone more access to air and water and the chance for the lawn to breath. Aeration also aids in controlling the unwanted thatch which hinders lawn growth. The key for mitigating weed growth is to eliminate the bare patches of lawn, if the grass is thick and lush the weeds have less chance of growing. One must ask why a bare patch exists and does it occur in the same area each year, this maybe due to the area having minimal sunlight such as under a tree canopy. If this is the case then it maybe worthwhile considering reducing the lawn size and create a shallow garden bed for small shade tolerable plants. Where there are other bare patches of a noticeable size the ground can be prepared for ready made rolls of turf or alternatively grass seed can be applied. Preparation is of the utmost importance here and watering after the turf has been laid or the seed has been sown is essential. With the possibility of having more time available, then those deep rooted dandelions, providing they are not too in abundance and the ground reasonably soft could be dug out by hand. It is the bane of the lawn lover, but the dandelion with its bright yellow flowers is beneficial to pollen beetles and bees particularly in the month of April, therefore, if desired the first cut could always be delayed. It should be considered too that if the lawn was to remain slightly longer throughout the year, cut on a higher setting, then this may result in less weeds. The greater surface area on an individual grass blade equates to increased photosyntheses, which then results in more growth and increased root system, hence reducing the space for weeds to grow. by Oliver David Cook on behalf of Green Landscapes Cornwall  In these unprecedented times the garden can become our saviour, a place where we can temporarily escape from the tribulations which are unfolding around us and the rest of the world too. The garden provides food and medicine for the soul, but it could be regarded as reciprocal, that is the plants no doubt benefit too from human presence. There have been scientific studies that plants may benefit from being spoken to by humans and a great advocate of this was the Duke of Cornwall himself, The Prince of Wales. It was back in 1986 that Prince Charles famously quoted ‘I just come and talk to the plants, really – very important to talk to them. They respond.’ Indeed, the plants will respond from the release of carbon dioxide which is produced when people exhale as they speak. The plants then absorb the carbon dioxide which aids them with their growth and through the process of photosyntheses, oxygen is released as a by-product which in turn is breathed in by the speaker. It also maybe plausible that plants benefit from sounds such as a person talking. Sounds are forms of vibrations which the plants do respond to. An experiment was carried out several years ago by a television crew who arranged plants into separate greenhouses, each greenhouse having a different theme of sound. One greenhouse was silent, another was subjected to the sound of people talking, another to classical music and one to the sound of rock music. The greenhouse which remained silent had the least growth and the greenhouses with music being played had the most growth, the greenhouse of rock music having the most growth of all. However, from this conclusion it is recommended that one must not play loud music in their garden if it would cause any tension with the neighbours at this time of self-isolation, but some gentle singing maybe appreciated. Why not try an experiment yourself? It can work with house plants too. Have two identical potted plants which are placed apart from one another, but if possible the same amount of sunshine and water. Continually talk to one and not the other and after three weeks, the results may prove conclusive, either way it can help pass the time of self-isolation. Otherwise, venture out into the garden and start talking or singing to the plants, select a different area of the garden each day if possible. When asked at a later date if he still spoke to the plants, Prince Charles responded ‘No, now I instruct them instead.’ Whether you wish to instruct them or talk about the day to day events which are unfolding rapidly in front of our eyes, without doubt it will benefit both the plants and the person who is speaking. BY OLIVER DAVID COOK  MARCH FOR THE SUMMER BULBS
During the month of March the northern hemisphere spring equinox occurs, thus the length of daylight is equal to that of darkness. From then onwards the daylight hours increase and the gardening season is well and truly upon us and no doubt a floriferous spring and summer to look forward to. A variety of summer bloom can come from the bulbous plants and the month of March is ideal to plant the following popular bulbs: - Dahlias - Gladioli - Begonias - Crocosmia - Cannas Lily All of the above can be regarded as sub-tropical plants, which thrive in the sunny and warm locations of the garden. Therefore, it is best to take heed of the weather forecast and not to proceed with planting if a frost is imminent. Essentially the difference between spring bulbs and summer bulbs is that the spring bulbs require several weeks of cold temperatures to trigger the upward growth, hence they are planted in autumn and remain in the soil throughout the winter with growth and blossom occurring in spring. However, the summer bulbs with their preference for a warmer climate do not require this slumber period of cold temperatures. The term bulb is used generically as it includes bulbs, tubers, corms and rhizomes. They are all underground storage organs, the correct name which classifies them all under one umbrella is ‘Geophytes’ originating from Greek, earth (Geo) and plant (phytes). The planting depths can vary depending on the type of bulb, a good rule of thumb is two to three times the size of the bulb which more than often equates to planting approximately 100mm deep. Dahlias are root tubers and can benefit from being pot planted in a greenhouse for the initial growth to commence and then transplanted into the garden, this is to ensure they do not succumb to any frosts. It is however, the temperature of the soil, a minimum of 13c and not the air temperature which contributes to healthy and beautiful dahlias, therefore, it is best to choose an area with full sun and lighter, free drainage soil. Gladioli and Crocosmias are both corms and to be planted approximately 100mm deep and it is advisable to prepare the planting bed by adding some compost after loosening the soil with a garden fork. The Crocosmia corms will benefit from being planted in clumps, whereas, the Gladioli should be planted individually with the point of the corm facing upwards and by placing several in close vicinity to one another, one will be rewarded with a fabulous display of blossom. Gladioli also make excellent cut flowers for the enthusiastic florists amongst us. Begonia tubers are suited for containers and hanging baskets and will provide a continuous colour throughout the summer and autumn. The fibrous rooted variety are more suitable for the garden beds. The tubers have a convex side which is planted downwards, the concave side will posses the new growth and faces upwards. Plant in a pot with a thin layer of gravel/shingle to allow for drainage then the remainder with compost and plant the tuber just beneath the surface. The range of colourful begonias available ensure hanging baskets are a great addition to any garden. The canna lily is a rhizome (underground stem) and the large bold tropical leaves and striking flowers make for a terrific display and should be planted in full sun and a sheltered location away from strong winds. Plant the rhizomes, with the growing points facing upwards, 100mm deep with 500mm spacing between each one for a superb summer display and then water thoroughly. It is highly recommended to use a soil thermometer probe before the planting of summer bulbs, then one can be sure the necessary soil temperature of 13c has been reached for a successful summer bloom. It is a month which at times can show signs of spring and entice one to partake in some gardening. Indeed, if the weather is genial then February is the ideal month to prune those plants which belong to the RHS category of Group Six pruning. Essentially, these are the plants which flower late summer to autumn and on the current new seasons stems and growth. Examples of plants which adhere to Group Six pruning are:
As these shrubs flower on the same years growth a hard prune is required during the month of February and as in the case of the hardy Fuschias almost down to ground level, this can be extremely therapeutic too for the person who is doing the pruning. Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’ which exhibits a wonderful display of blue-lilac flowers, also known as Russian Sage, will benefit immensely from a hard prune back to its basal shoots. Perovskia thrives in many coastal areas and in many soil types and with aromatic leaves akin to sage and an appearance similar to lavender it makes an excellent low lying hedgerow. Buddleja Davidii also known as the ‘Butterfly Bush’ can be cut down, using large pruners, to approximately half a metre from the ground, this will encourage upright shoots with a slight arching habit and will be greatly appreciated by the butterflies. As a rule of thumb for shrubs which adhere to Group Six pruning, cut back the previous years flowering stems to one or two buds from the older framework. Certain types of Clematis will also be required to have a hard prune in February, this is particularly the case for Herbaceous Clematis, Gypsy Queen and Clematis Viticella. They all flower on the current seasons growth in late summer and if they are not pruned annually the stems will be devoid of flowers and only up high will the flowers grow and most often amongst a tangled mass of growth. It must be noted that Clematis has its own pruning group classification, those which flower in late summer fall into Clematis Group 3, whereas, those which flower in early summer and on older wood or the previous years growth fall into Clematis Group 2. If unsure when to prune, then observe the time of year the Clematis will come into flower. For the kitchen gardeners, autumn raspberries will fall into Pruning Group Six. All old canes should be cut back down to ground level in February and the new canes will start to grow in spring and then fruit in late summer. It is important not to mistake summer raspberries for the autumn variety, as they fruit on the previous years canes, which would result in a loss of crop. Contribution By Oliver David Cook   MISTLETOE the ‘air-plant’
Mistletoe, its true name being Viscum Album, is synonymous with this time of year particularly with the tradition of ‘Kissing under the Mistletoe’. There are many ancient mistletoe traditions, the best known being the Scandinavian legend Balder, the god of peace, who was killed by an arrow made from mistletoe and was resurrected by the other deities. The goddess of love was then entrusted with the mistletoe and regarded it as symbol of love, hence, any person passing beneath shall receive a kiss. Mistletoe is an evergreen parasitic shrub with white viscous berries and of the natural order Loranthaceae. It is a native of Europe and North Asia and requires a host plant with which to grow on, such as an apple tree in the garden. Orchards benefit from the growing of mistletoe on their fruit trees, thus yielding a return during the winter months when the trees are dormant. This is what makes the mistletoe so unique, it is also known as an ‘air-plant’ that is it is not rooted to the ground but it attaches itself to other plants, the correct name for such a plant is an Epiphyte, this word originating from the Greek words epi (upon) and phyton (plant). The bark and the leathery mistletoe leaves are of a yellow-green colour and are oval- lance-shaped, mostly in pairs. In spring, there are inconspicuous yellow flowers which consist of four triangular sepals, a similar number of anthers and an ovary with simple stigma. This is followed by poisonous white berries, however, they are devoured by birds most notably the Mistle Thrush, the seeds becoming attached to the branches of trees by their agency. On germination the embryo pierces the bark and penetrates to the wood and here it draws most of its food from the tree, but it manufactures carbohydrates in its leaves.The constituents of mistletoe can vary due to the host plant with which it grows on and it is believed the Druids regarded the mistletoe which grew on an Oak was the superior, although Oak being a rare host. It possible to grow your own mistletoe and there are numerous fact sheets and websites available including the following: http://mistletoe.org.uk/homewp/index.php/grow-your-own/ |
AuthorHello everyone, Green Landscapes Cornwall are sharing with you some ideas about how to implement different features for your garden! Archives
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