During the peak months of summer and particularly July, the garden more often than not is in
need of water and it is important to monitor all perennials, shrubs and lawn to ensure they are receiving a sufficient amount. Hanging baskets, container plants and newly planted summer bedding plants are the most prone to drought due to being shallow rooted. Shrubs and trees will be deeper rooted and will be able to source their water supply from further down beneath ground level, that is providing the water table level has not dropped too low from a prolonged period of dry weather. There are two sources of water supply available for use in the garden and they are tap-water and rainwater, the latter being natural and more beneficial as it contains no chlorides and has zero hardness. However, when there is a limited supply of rainwater, then tap-water will be the only option. Ponds and water-features this time of year can drop to a low level and will require the use of a hose for a regular top up to maintain a sufficient level, this will also benefit any fish, particularly with the addition of a spray attachment which will aid in aeration. To maintain a lush green lawn during dry periods can be challenging and it is advisable to water only once a week to minimise wastage. An excellent suggestion by the RHS is to place an empty jam-jar on the lawn and with the sprinkler running for a sufficient time, that is until 13mm (0.5inch) has collected at the bottom of the jar. This is the optimum amount before excess water is wasted as the lawn has now received its required amount. With regards to watering plants, it is more economical and efficient to use a watering can compared to indiscriminate watering by a hose. Water management is extremely important during periods of drought and the essence of this is the method of water storage and harvesting. The most popular method by far is the use of water butts positioned below downpipes which then take the run-off of rain water from various roofs such as garden sheds, greenhouses or even the house. With the water butt raised up on blocks, the tap at the base can be utilised to fill watering cans with the valuable stored rain water. The question then is when is the best time to water the plants and lawn of the garden? The blades of grass will hold moisture in the early hours of the morning, the moisture retreating to the roots around midday. It is a general consensus that to avoid evaporation the best time to apply water is in the morning or evening whilst avoiding the heat of the midday sun. The morning application is the most favoured, this is because the ground will be drier as the day progresses compared to the evening time, equating to a reduced chance of mildew diseases and the arrival of slugs and snails. The final question being: Is it best to water from the top, watering the leaves too, or from the bottom and the roots only? The jury is still out!
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THE CHELSEA CHOP
When one talks of gardening in the month of May, without doubt the Chelsea flower show will spring to mind. However, due to the unprecedented events this year and the prohibition of the coming together of large groups of people and social gatherings has equated to the nations favourite flower show unfortunately being cancelled. For the first ever time the show will be a virtual event which can be viewed online: Nevertheless, just because there is no actual Chelsea flower show it does not mean that we cannot partake in the Chelsea Chop. The Chelsea Chop, to clarify, is a pruning method to determine the size, shape and the flowering season of many of the herbaceous perennial plants. It is so called as it is carried out towards the end of May, coinciding with the RHS Chelsea Flower Show. It is suitable for late flowering perennials. But, why should we carry out the Chelsea Chop? It goes against the natural instinct to drastically cut back a plant prior to flowering. If a herbaceous perennial is chopped down to half its height, using secateurs or shears, it will delay the flowering until later in the summer. The plant will be more compact and shorter which equates to less staking and the flowers can be more numerous if slightly smaller. This is because the top shoots have been eliminated and side shoots lower down will develop and produce the new flowers. Overall, the plants will look much tidier and less leggy. If only half of the perennial clump is cut down, such as the front section, this will induce a prolonged flowering season as the rear section will flower first, then followed later by the pruned front section. Plants which can benefit from the Chelsea Chop are: - Phlox paniculata - Echinacea purpurea - Helenium - Rudbeckias - Penstemons - Nepeta The following are suitable for coastal gardens: - Anthemis tinctoria - Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’ - Achillea - Aster ‘michaelmas daisy’ - Campanulas The Chelsea Chop is hugely beneficial for perennials subjected to the coastal environment of wind and salt spray. The chop creating shorter and stiffer stems and more stability. The Chelsea Flower Show will be greatly missed this year, so why not visit the gardeners world website and their own guide to carrying out the Chelsea Chop. https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/how-to-do-the-chelsea-chop/ |
Welcome!Here at Penwarne Landscaping we are all passionate about gardens, and believe that outdoor spaces are just as important as indoor ones! In this blog, we regularly share our expertise along with tips and tricks that you can use to make the most of your garden and home. Archives
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