The Microclimate of a Garden
When a new design is to be implemented into a garden, the local climate of the area is extremely important, but a microclimate that exists within the actual garden should also be taken into consideration. Adding to this, the new design can generate further microclimates in different parts of the garden by incorporating new structures such as trees, hedges, trellis, fencing, paving and solid walls. We could say there is microclimate within a microclimate within a localised climate. Phew! Now that has been clarified, we can take a closer look at the key elements that create a microclimate. 1.Sunlight Sunlight plays a major role in plant growth and supplies energy to not only raise the air temperature but also the temperature of the soil. A designer can position the garden beds to benefit from maximum sunshine and by also planting against existing south facing walls that absorb the heat radiation to maximise on flowering and fruiting. The addition of a south facing terraced area, particularly of a natural stone, will raise the temperature and enable many potted plants to thrive and any raised garden beds in the vicinity will benefit immensely, not to mention a warmer area for seating and al fresco dining too. A glasshouse retains vast amounts of heat radiation and is highly recommended for those tender loving plants that are more suited for a warmer Mediterranean climate. Cold frames and glasshouses enable complete control from the elements and a variety of microclimates can be created, the positioning is of the up most importance; away from shade, falling leaves and wind funnels. A water feature, such as a pond, can maintain a cool temperature in relation to the surrounding area and a genial place to repose. Plants grown against a north facing solid wall will most likely be subjected to full shade and cooler temperatures in comparison to the south facing side of the wall which will be subjected to full sun and a different microclimate. The area of shade in the winter can be much greater than during the summer as the sun sits higher in the sky. Introducing large trees will create areas of shade and again changing the microclimate. Planting under treetop canopies and next to hedges will more likely be subjected to a dapple shade and experience an environment similar to that of a woodland. It is, therefore, important when designing a new garden to take into consideration the newly formed areas that increase heat and shade from new structures such as a solid wall, fencing, trellis, pergolas and trees. 2.Wind Wind has a huge effect on the design of a garden and it should be managed and mitigated to prevent damage to plants and structures. Strong winds can cause havoc, but light winds are beneficial in preventing a stagnant atmosphere and the diseases that thrive in humidity. Wind funnelling may exist in the garden and it is best to avoid planting delicate plants in these areas. There are two main types of windbreak that can be implemented; a structural windbreak or a natural windbreak. A man-made structure should be permeable to allow some gusts to pass through, albeit, at a reduced speed, a bespoke timber slat fence is an ideal example. A solid non-impermeable windbreak, such as a brick wall at times can be ineffective as downdraught and turbulence will exist on the leeward side. A natural windbreak will consist of planting a suitable hedge or trees to lessen the wind as it passes through and into the garden. It should be noted that the growing conditions on each side of a windbreak will be different; the leeward side close to the hedge or wall may also receive less rainfall. The conclusion: It is possible to create a variety of different microclimates within a single garden, that in itself may have its own localised or microclimate in relation to its surrounding area.
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Ground cover plants are extremely beneficial in suppressing weed growth within the garden beds and amongst the ornamental plants. However, utility does not have to be the primary function, ground cover plants are aesthetically beneficial too, with many being highly decorative in their own right. A variety of colours and textures are to be found and once established most weed seedlings that attempt to grow will be successfully smothered by the ground cover canopy, depriving them of light and competing with them for water.
Ground cover plants also have great benefits with regards to the garden location and site topography. Where steep slopes exist and are subject to erosion, plants with a low spreading habit and vigorous root growth will provide stability to the soil, particularly after heavy rainfalls. The following are recommended: Juniperus squamata – Blue Carpet. Cotoneaster dammeri – Bear Berry. Hypericum calycinum – Rose of Sharon. A wildlife garden can benefit too with the addition of ground cover to attract the bees and butterflies, such as: Thymus praecox – creeping thyme. Lotus corniculatus – bird’s foot trefoil. In dry locations and to inhibit evaporation from soil and to eliminate the use of a top surface mulch, ground cover plants should not be underestimated. A dense planting of evergreens will assist in shading the soil, keeping it cool and natural leaf decomposition will act as the mulch. The following plants are suggested: Rosmarinus – rosemary Lavandula – lavender Cistus skanbergii – dwarf pink rockrose. Cistus Corbariensis – hybrid rockrose. Ground cover plants can provide colour to areas of shade, the following are examples: Bergenia – Ballawley, elephants ears. Euonymus fortunei – spindle emerald/gold. Symphytum x uplandicum ‘Variegatum’ When selecting ground cover plants it is best to choose the ones of vigorous growth and that will cover their allotted space in a short duration of time. It is important that they are perennial, either evergreen all year round or emerging rapidly in spring before the unwanted weeds have a chance to set seed. Ground cover plants are not necessarily confined to low growing, but taller shrubs of medium height can also be used to suppress weeds beneath their own canopy and below tree canopies too, such as: Fatsia japonica - ‘Variegata’ Cotoneaster conspicuss – Tibetan. Prunus lauroceraus - ‘OttoLuyken’ There are numerous ornamental ground cover plants available that can provide great colour and interest to the garden and when preparing to plant, ensure that the ground is weed free prior to planting and take heed of the recommended spacing, as this can vary from plant to plant. This year and the years to follow, why not reduce the weeding time and bring additional benefits to the garden by incorporating a variety of ground cover plants. During the month of March the northern hemisphere spring equinox occurs, thus the length of daylight is
equal to that of darkness. From then onwards the daylight hours increase and the gardening season is well and truly upon us and no doubt a floriferous spring and summer to look forward to. A variety of summer bloom can come from the bulbous plants and the month of March is ideal to plant the following popular bulbs: - Dahlias - Gladioli - Begonias - Crocosmia - Cannas Lily All of the above can be regarded as sub-tropical plants, which thrive in the sunny and warm locations of the garden. Therefore, it is best to take heed of the weather forecast and not to proceed with planting if a frost is imminent. Essentially the difference between spring bulbs and summer bulbs is that the spring bulbs require several weeks of cold temperatures to trigger the upward growth, hence they are planted in autumn and remain in the soil throughout the winter with growth and blossom occurring in spring. However, the summer bulbs with their preference for a warmer climate do not require this slumber period of cold temperatures. The term bulb is used generically as it includes bulbs, tubers, corms and rhizomes. They are all underground storage organs, the correct name which classifies them all under one umbrella is ‘Geophytes’ originating from Greek, earth (Geo) and plant (phytes). The planting depths can vary depending on the type of bulb, a good rule of thumb is two to three times the size of the bulb which more than often equates to planting approximately 100mm deep. Dahlias are root tubers and can benefit from being pot planted in a greenhouse for the initial growth to commence and then transplanted into the garden, this is to ensure they do not succumb to any frosts. It is however, the temperature of the soil, a minimum of 13c and not the air temperature which contributes to healthy and beautiful dahlias, therefore, it is best to choose an area with full sun and lighter, free drainage soil. Gladioli and Crocosmias are both corms and to be planted approximately 100mm deep and it is advisable to prepare the planting bed by adding some compost after loosening the soil with a garden fork. The Crocosmia corms will benefit from being planted in clumps, whereas, the Gladioli should be planted individually with the point of the corm facing upwards and by placing several in close vicinity to one another, one will be rewarded with a fabulous display of blossom. Gladioli also make excellent cut flowers for the enthusiastic florists amongst us. Begonia tubers are suited for containers and hanging baskets and will provide a continuous colour throughout the summer and autumn. The fibrous rooted variety are more suitable for the garden beds. The tubers have a convex side which is planted downwards, the concave side will posses the new growth and faces upwards. Plant in a pot with a thin layer of gravel/shingle to allow for drainage then the remainder with compost and plant the tuber just beneath the surface. The range of colourful begonias available ensure hanging baskets are a great addition to any garden. The canna lily is a rhizome (underground stem) and the large bold tropical leaves and striking flowers make for a terrific display and should be planted in full sun and a sheltered location away from strong winds. Plant the rhizomes, with the growing points facing upwards, 100mm deep with 500mm spacing between each one for a superb summer display and then water thoroughly. It is highly recommended to use a soil thermometer probe before the planting of summer bulbs, then one can be sure the necessary soil temperature of 13c has been reached for a successful summer bloom. |
Welcome!Here at Penwarne Landscaping we are all passionate about gardens, and believe that outdoor spaces are just as important as indoor ones! In this blog, we regularly share our expertise along with tips and tricks that you can use to make the most of your garden and home. Archives
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