Summer bedding plants provide and create a temporary floral and foliage display during the
warm summer months. The form of display can be within the garden beds, hanging baskets or a container of your choice. It is an excellent opportunity for one to become creative, not only with the variety of plants available but, with also the type of container which can be used. For example, a disused wheelbarrow or a pair of old boots can make authentic and attractive planters. Although grown from seed, they can be purchased in cellular trays and multi-packs ready for planting and providing an almost instant effect. The majority of the summer bedding plants are categorised as tender/half-hardy perennials, hardy annuals, half-hardy annuals and hardy biennials. The following are some of the popular choices: - Begonia - Sweet Peas - Geranium/Pelargoniums - Petunia - Lobelia - Busy Lizzies - Heliotrope - Nemesia - Cosmos - Alyssum - Calendular/Marigolds. - Dianthus. Generally, summer bedding plants are regarded as being frost tender and suitable for the summer months only. They are excellent for filling any bare or vacant areas within the garden beds, the larger areas can be planted with what is known as carpet bedding plants. Essentially, these plants are more compact and closely integrated which give the effect of a carpet and it is possible to create various different designs and patterns by using different colours of blossom. This is widely seen in public gardens and commercial landscapes around the country where many thousands of plants are used, the design layout being from a computerised plan. The private garden does not have to be quite as formal, but an effective display can still be achieved, whether the same colour is used in large clumps or long singular rows, it is another opportunity to be creative in the garden. Hanging baskets are a great addition for any garden or property and bedding plants with a pendulous and trailing characteristic will create the best effect. Popular plants suitable for hanging baskets are Lobelia, Begonia and Periwinkle, but, why not try the edibles of strawberries and tomatoes. Colour themes have long been popular and simple to achieve, this is known as monochromatic, where each container or hanging basket is composed of plants with foliage or blossom in shades of the same one colour. Again, another opportunity to be creative. Regardless of the choice flowers and the location of planting, either within the borders or container, the addition of summer bedding attributes to the garden a feeling of completion. There will be minimal bare areas, a surrounding of flora with a profusion of colour and one must not forget, a chance to be creative. Contribution by Oliver David Cook
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April is an ideal month for attending to any existing lawn care issues which may have arisen over time. If
it is a newly laid lawn which is desired then now is advisable before the average temperature begins to increase. For the first cut of the year it is recommended that the setting of the lawn mower should be on a higher setting. This is known as the ‘one third rule’ meaning one must not cut more than a third off the length of the blade of grass in one go. Cutting shorter on the first cut can stress the grass and if cut too short and scalping occurs, then a bare patch would be inviting for weeds to grow. Towards the end of the month the cutting height can be reduced to achieve the eventual desired length, however, this is dependant on the weather conditions and if the grass is growing profusely then more cuts maybe required or the cutting height may have to be reduced earlier. Before the first cut is made, an overall inspection should be made of the lawn and with a grass rake in hand, rake as much of the lawn area as possible. This is to achieve clearing the lawn of any stones or debris which may damage the blades of the mower, it also lifts the grass blades signalling them into life, removes any unwanted thatch and an opportunity to observe any bare patches or areas where weeds are making an appearance. Aeration is advisable too, particularly in the areas which are susceptible to compaction and this can be carried out with a standard gardening fork, the numerous holes allow the root zone more access to air and water and the chance for the lawn to breath. Aeration also aids in controlling the unwanted thatch which hinders lawn growth. The key for mitigating weed growth is to eliminate the bare patches of lawn, if the grass is thick and lush the weeds have less chance of growing. One must ask why a bare patch exists and does it occur in the same area each year, this maybe due to the area having minimal sunlight such as under a tree canopy. If this is the case then it maybe worthwhile considering reducing the lawn size and create a shallow garden bed for small shade tolerable plants. Where there are other bare patches of a noticeable size the ground can be prepared for ready made rolls of turf or alternatively grass seed can be applied. Preparation is of the utmost importance here and watering after the turf has been laid or the seed has been sown is essential. With the possibility of having more time available, then those deep rooted dandelions, providing they are not too in abundance and the ground reasonably soft could be dug out by hand. It is the bane of the lawn lover, but the dandelion with its bright yellow flowers is beneficial to pollen beetles and bees particularly in the month of April, therefore, if desired the first cut could always be delayed. It should be considered too that if the lawn was to remain slightly longer throughout the year, cut on a higher setting, then this may result in less weeds. The greater surface area on an individual grass blade equates to increased photosyntheses, which then results in more growth and increased root system, hence reducing the space for weeds to grow. by Oliver David Cook on behalf of Green Landscapes Cornwall It is a month which at times can show signs of spring and entice one to partake in some gardening. Indeed, if the weather is genial then February is the ideal month to prune those plants which belong to the RHS category of Group Six pruning.
Essentially, these are the plants which flower late summer to autumn and on the current new seasons stems and growth. Examples of plants which adhere to Group Six pruning are:
As these shrubs flower on the same years growth a hard prune is required during the month of February and as in the case of the hardy Fuschias almost down to ground level, this can be extremely therapeutic too for the person who is doing the pruning. Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’ which exhibits a wonderful display of blue-lilac flowers, also known as Russian Sage, will benefit immensely from a hard prune back to its basal shoots. Perovskia thrives in many coastal areas and in many soil types and with aromatic leaves akin to sage and an appearance similar to lavender it makes an excellent low lying hedgerow. Buddleja Davidii also known as the ‘Butterfly Bush’ can be cut down, using large pruners, to approximately half a metre from the ground, this will encourage upright shoots with a slight arching habit and will be greatly appreciated by the butterflies. As a rule of thumb for shrubs which adhere to Group Six pruning, cut back the previous years flowering stems to one or two buds from the older framework. Certain types of Clematis will also be required to have a hard prune in February, this is particularly the case for Herbaceous Clematis, Gypsy Queen and Clematis Viticella. They all flower on the current seasons growth in late summer and if they are not pruned annually the stems will be devoid of flowers and only up high will the flowers grow and most often amongst a tangled mass of growth. It must be noted that Clematis has its own pruning group classification, those which flower in late summer fall into Clematis Group 3, whereas, those which flower in early summer and on older wood or the previous years growth fall into Clematis Group 2. If unsure when to prune, then observe the time of year the Clematis will come into flower. For the kitchen gardeners, autumn raspberries will fall into Pruning Group Six. All old canes should be cut back down to ground level in February and the new canes will start to grow in spring and then fruit in late summer. It is important not to mistake summer raspberries for the autumn variety, as they fruit on the previous years canes, which would result in a loss of crop. Contribution By Oliver David Cook |
Welcome!Here at Penwarne Landscaping we are all passionate about gardens, and believe that outdoor spaces are just as important as indoor ones! In this blog, we regularly share our expertise along with tips and tricks that you can use to make the most of your garden and home. Archives
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